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Madagascar’s ylang-ylang is at the heart of iconic fragrances

During the « Roaring Twenties » — a memorable period in the history of fashion when glamour, elegance and emancipation mingled — a legend was born: « Chanel N°5 ». The perfume of Gabrielle Chanel (aka Coco) shook up all the codes of the era by using Cannanga odorata or ylang-ylang’s heart note accords. It has become the reference, sounding almost like a myth, in the haute couture perfumery business. Today, the hypnotic flower that grows best in Madagascar’s lands is at the heart of Dior’s « J’adore In joy”, Van Cleef & Arpels’ « Murmure », Guerlain’s « Samsara », Givenchy’s « Organza ». All of those are must-haves!

Dating back to the time of the great dynasties and monarchs, the history of perfumery is mixed with legends and globetrotting. Previously reserved only for the court and the bourgeoisie, wearing a perfume or having one’s own fragrance has become an art of expressing one’s identity, on the same level as fashion, the art of propriety or simply the natural charisma.

To find the rarest essences, the greatest perfumers sometimes travel thousands of kilometers from home to find inspiration. As a true invitation to travel, the essence of ylang-ylang, or the « flower of flowers » (translated from Indonesian), is one of those complex, luxurious and overpriced essences, highly sought after by major brands.

The timeless success of Chanel N°5 is partly built on this tropical flower, of which Madagascar is becoming the world’s leading producer. Following an increasing demand, the island has indeed gone in a few years from a production of about 25 tons, to more than 60 tons of ylang-ylang essential oil, worth nearly 8 million USD per year (*record statistics of 2017). With that performance in mind, Madagascar holds 25% of the world ylang-ylang market. Products go mainly to Europe and the United States. A niche market is also developing towards the Far East, particularly Japan. In terms of traceability, the Big Island is on track for the world’s leading producer of certified organic ylang-ylang.

Following the success of Chanel N°5 that Coco Chanel owes to ylang-ylang, the brand created another successful ylang-ylang-based fragrance called « Bois des îles ». It all began with a story where women have never asserted their identity that much, at a time when conservative traditions and overencoded propriety reigned. But at the same time, art and fashion, hand in hand, reached their peak. The Roaring Twenties’ own merit and feat!

As a mythical perfume, Chanel No. 5 is the first perfume in the world to be showcased in a museum: the Museum of Modern Art in New York in 1959.

A legend was born: « a woman’s perfume with a woman’s smell »

Coco Chanel was the embodiment of revolution and audacity of the 20’s, first because she was the first who dared to combine haute couture and perfumery. Then, she wanted to push even further by asking for an inimitable and complex fragrance, composed from A to Z, like the dresses she designed. In her own words, she wanted to create « a woman’s perfume with a woman’s smell” and add hints of modernity to the point of making women muses.

To create her perfume, she then called on Ernest Henri Beaux, perfumer at the court of the tsars and designer of the famous « Bouquet de Napoléon ». The idea was to call on the designer’s genius to make something quite abstract and mysterious like an artistic painting. These were still unusual in the perfumes of the time that could be easily identified as they revolved mainly around jasmine and lily of the valley. To live up to Mademoiselle’s perfectionism, Beaux travelled the world looking for inspiration, and partly relied on the powerful and spicy hints of ylang-ylang to stimulate senses. Its fragrance contains at least 10% of the essence of the shrub.

In a true perfume boost, Chanel’s N°5 brought an unprecedented breath of freedom for all women of the time. Mademoiselle Chanel herself had tested it first and would have caused heads to turn wherever she went. Here is the expression of the feminine ideal: by wearing it, a woman immediately feels endowed with a certain power of seduction, a touch of danger and an elusive side. Shaking up the codes until the end, she had chosen an extremely simple and refined container – unlike other perfumes of the time — with a cap cut like a diamond, a final touch of elegance.

The already resounding success of Chanel N°5 was a milestone in history. But it has even increased tenfold thanks to Marilyn Monroe, another timeless symbol of femininity. At the peak of her popularity, Marilyn had indeed answered the question of a journalist (Marie Claire magazine) about what she wore to bed. The line was unforgettable: « Just a few drops of Chanel N°5….” As a result, the perfume sales spectacularly took off. Even today, it remains the best-selling perfume in the world with a record of one bottle sold every two to five seconds!

The success perpetuated thanks to a long list of brand muses: from Mademoiselle herself to Catherine Deneuve, Vanessa Paradis, Nicole Kidman, Audrey Tautou, Kristen Stewart, Lily-Rose Depp, the perfume raised to the level of cult item and has even been placed at the Museum of Modern Art in New York since 1959. For the first time, a male celebrity (Brad Pitt) has agreed to be the ambassador of a women’s perfume. At present, the Chanel empire (perfumes, cosmetics, ready-to-wear, …) would weigh nearly 10 billion USD, of which 43.7 million USD are generated only by Chanel N°5.

A fragrance specific to the Malagasy terroir

Over several decades, Chanel’s N°5 acted as a precursor of the ylang-ylang economy in the islands of the Indian Ocean, including Madagascar. Following the major trend brought by Chanel, the perfumery industry is now worth USD 48 billion worldwide (2021), 20% of which is generated by fine perfumery. Experts estimate that this figure will increase to USD 52 billion by 2025, and Givaudan, the world market leader based in Madagascar, contributes about USD 5 billion.

The essences used for fine perfumery are considered as pieces of jewelry, as they have become vital for these luxury industries. For Chanel, they are so precious that they are sealed in a secret room within their laboratory. Large floral raw materials including ylang, are found there. A real boon for Madagascar! « They are stored here because they are rare, they are products of annual harvests, and they are often very expensive, » a manager of the laboratory of the prestigious brand explained in a documentary on Chanel No. 5. « These are our nuggets, our little diamonds, our casket…, » he said.

Other major houses like Dior particularly appreciate the ylang-ylang from Madagascar. François Demachy himself, perfumer and exclusive designer, travels thousands of kilometers from the France to appreciate the famous flower where it is produced. Ylang-ylang is particularly appreciated by fine perfumery because it is one of the few flowers that we can extract essences from. According to the expert, the flower would be less colored than other flowers, and it would need to exhale fragrances to be noticed by pollinators. In the perfumery industry, the flower would be associated with sun, warmth and luminosity. « We use this unconscious pattern to evoke a solar and a joyful side in a perfume, » he says.

Although of Indonesian origin, the shrub adjusted so well in the Malagasy soil that the island now has unique ylang species in the world. What makes those species unique, among other things, is the concentrations of certain specific molecules. Madagascar’s ylang-ylang essences are lighter than those extracted in the Comoros, for example, and have a completely different chemical profile. Dior appreciates that uniqueness and puts it at the heart of one of its flagship fragrances « J’adore In Joy« . This latter fragrance is a variation of « J’adore », the first and only perfume in the world to have dethroned Chanel No. 5 once in sales in 2010 (with 43.8 million USD).

« J’adore In Joy », with Charlize Theron as its muse, wears ylang-ylang from Madagascar as a flagship ingredient.

« The most probable assumption is that there is a terroir effect that plays a role, and also distillation techniques, » says Lisa Generali, sales manager in France for essential oils from Jacarandas, a Malagasy company working in organic essential oils and spices. « In our case, we use steam distillation, » she says.

The pedoclimatic conditions of the Malagasy soil are indeed ideal for a great plant diversity, and attracts many investors in agribusiness. “Madagascar is an island where endemism, the quality of the soil, and the richness of the climate make it possible to have a very important variety of production. Because from North to South, the climates are different, and so are they in the highlands, » says Matthieu Richard, project manager at Jacarandas.

Turning the tide through sustainable development

The global ylang-ylang market is mainly supplied by Madagascar and Comoros. If Comoros had a virtual monopoly of the market for decades, the trend would now be on the verge of reversing. Two main phenomena would drive that turnaround. The first is Madagascar’s significant progress towards sustainable development. In view of the global climate emergency and the current consumer trend, the market is indeed increasingly demanding certified organic and fair-trade products.

In accordance with the market demands, Madagascar has adopted Law No. 2020-003 on organic agriculture, in order to regulate exports and production specifications, while dealing with environment protection and ethical issues.

If we take a look at the example of the Jacarandas’ case, efforts are concentrated in the reduction of the energy consumption of stills through technological innovations that allowed them to significantly reduce their wood consumption. On the other hand, they offset their carbon emissions through reforestation projects, and ecosystem-friendly planting systems. With that in mind, the ylang-ylang essences extracted by the company are fully certified organic.

Another aspect that draws major perfumers’ attention is the ethical and traceable production methods. « Ylang-ylang is found everywhere in the Indian Ocean. But the reason why I am interested in the quality of Nosy-Be ylang-ylang is that it is completely traceable. This is important for us not only with regards to ethics. It also allows us to keep the same qualities year after year, » confirms Demachy.

Jacarandas is proud of the good relations with the farmers with whom the company collaborates, in a mutual respect for the commitments of contract farming. This would make it possible to achieve consistent quality standards, while ensuring stable incomes for farmers. In addition to a 50-ha ylang-ylang plantation, the company works with five ylang-ylang farmers’ associations, and exports nearly two tons of essential oils per year (through the distillation of nearly 90 tons of flowers). All producers are monitored and trained to comply with very strict specifications in order to guarantee the quality of the products for the end customers.

At Madagascar, ylang flowers are picked very early in the morning…

planteur ylang — … to keep a maximum of fragrances before the distillery. Jacarandas

The second factor that drives Madagascar’s surge in sales was a fluctuation in the market during the Covid-19 crisis. Unlike other ylang-ylang supplier countries, the adapted to price drops, leading to a considerable customer base. “50% of the market held by the Comoros has moved to Madagascar,” says Matthieu Richard.

A preferred land for agribusiness

In addition to the above-mentioned pedoclimatic aspects, other key factors attract agribusiness investors to Madagascar. In particular, it would be more important both for this category of entrepreneurs and for the end customers to be able to trace a product from its land of origin, place of planting and processing, until it becomes a final product.

Working on on-site plantations would also offer many advantages, as it makes it possible to enhance what is known as crop routes. It involves a kind of monitoring from the source (soil quality, nitrogen content, moisture, …), making it possible to define and standardize optimal development factors across all plantations.

plantation ylang — Ylang can reach 15 m, but are cut and folded like bonzai to make it easier to pick flowers. © Jacarandas

In addition, reforestation initiatives will make energy more available to the essential oils sector. Besides, a platform has been dedicated for the ylang-ylang sector in particular in Nosy-Be for a few years now, through the Integrated Growth Pole (PIC) project. It aims to bring together all the players to discuss, for example, more sustainable solutions on energy consumption in the ylang-ylang sector.

« The ylang must complete its ecological transition to be sustainable over time. Today, yes, it is a success, but if we want to sustain that success, we still have a lot of work to do. This is the challenge of the sector, » concludes Matthieu Richard.

Vanilla sector: when excellence comes from traceability

In line with the global trend and requirements, Madagascar is now adopting practices that favor traceability for agribusiness. Madagascar vanilla — the best in the world — has seduced multinationals and pioneers in the food and agricultural industry. They are now working on site to perfect the sector in order to make “Madagascar origin” vanilla a reference for quality, equity, sustainability, and ecology.

The fight against climate change requires joint actions encompassing changes in consumption and production patterns and overall management. In a global drive for change, the last decade has revealed a new type of consumption, as consumers have become more demanding about the origins of their products. In order to meet these requirements, producers and industries have adopted more responsible practices. The United Nations’ 17 Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) have been established for that purpose, with particular focuses on three goals: the fight against inequalities, against exclusion and injustices, climate resilience, and ending extreme poverty.

SDG12: Sustainable Production and Consumption is being accompanied by measures developed by specialized bodies such as Fairtrade International. « Fairtrade carries out studies every year to establish the minimum price of vanilla, for a living income for the producer » says Damiana Rasoavinjanahary, General Manager of Sahanala, a Malagasy company certified by Fairtrade, the most recognized ethical label in the world. Sahanala works with nearly 5,648 vanilla producers across the island.

Most consumers expect brands to commit now that the « buy to help » and « produce better to consume better » concepts are becoming trendy. In this context, the global market for certified organic food products has rapidly grown in two decades, worth more than USD 100 billion. Beyond offering « healthy » products to consumers, responsible agriculture also benefits more than 3.1 million farmers worldwide.

The vanilla sector in Madagascar sees a massive conversion towards responsible and traceable production. Leader in the world, Madagascar’s vanilla has furthered its reputation thanks to its unique aromatic profile. However, quality is not enough; « customers are increasingly sensitive to ethics, » says Noeline Rasoamandrary, Founder of Vanilla Bridge, a French brand specializing in the export and development of a range of natural and personalized flavors of Madagascar’s vanilla.

Vanilla becomes « terroir »

Originating in Mexico, Vanilla planifolia is so well adjusted in Madagascar’s good pedoclimatic conditions that it has developed unique aromas, with hints of rum, balsamic, grape, and caramel. Malagasy vanilla does not owe this excellent aromatic profile to the rate of vanillin, but to a completely different quality that only our terroir can provide. « Other countries produce vanilla with a similar or even higher vanillin content than Madagascar; but they don’t have that specific flavor of Madagascar vanilla, » says Rasoavinjanahary.

Successive generations of farmers backed with a certain level of know-how have developed the specificity of our « terroir vanilla » over time. « Such wealth of knowledge gives Madagascar an unparalleled advantage in exceptional vanilla production, » says Cynthia Esposito, vanilla flavor expert at giant Archer-Daniels-Midland (ADM), based in Madagascar and partner of Sahanala. By using self-developed fermentation techniques, Malagasy farmers managed to give vanilla a sort of typical and gourmet smoothness much appreciated by gourmets.

P1377594-min — Successive generations of farmers backed with a certain level of know-how have developed the specificity of our « terroir vanilla » over time. © Sahanala

The quality of Madagascar vanilla has conquered millions of consumers and industries worldwide. The country now supplies a record 80% of the world’s vanilla. Over the years, consumers have become more and more familiar with Madagascar vanilla, while recalling memories and emotions, such as succulent homemade dishes. According to ADM experts, nostalgia is a powerful tool to stimulate direct consumers’ preferences and choices. Besides, the origin of the product alone is perceived as an invitation to a dream and travel destination.

Madagascar vanilla has almost become the world’s favorite vanilla. On the artisans’ side, Malagasy vanilla would be a symbol of luxury and rarity, in addition to its unique aroma. « For me, it’s a personal choice, because it’s my favorite! » said Olivier Onfroy, an artisan ice cream maker in Anjou (France). For this famous artisan, Madagascar vanilla ice cream is unbeatable and has remained the best-selling in his shop for years.

Traceability and environmental compliance

Regarding traceability, vanilla players in Madagascar have intensified their efforts to promote their sector. As sustainability only makes sense through traceability, technologies such as blockchain are used by Malagasy companies to trace vanilla throughout the value chain until it reaches the consumer. Those blockchain-based technologies — ideal for transparency and traceability — are available on smartphones, where field workers can record and store data in real time. At the end of the chain, the customer is only required to scan the QR code labeled on each product to know its origin, its treatment and fair production process, in a transparent manner.

Traceability is also part of the program implemented by the National Vanilla Council (CNV) to clean up and secure the sector, as well as to lobby for Protected Geographical Identification (PGI), and the standardization of production quality that respects precise specifications. The traceability of vanilla is not only advantageous for importers, but also ensures equity at the level of the early players in the chain, especially producers. « A vertically integrated and traceable supply chain partnership with our farmers is critical to maintaining this quality, » Esposito explains.

P1355312-min — « A vertically integrated and traceable supply chain partnership with our farmers is critical to maintaining this quality, » Cynthia Esposito, vanilla flavor expert at giant Archer-Daniels-Midland (ADM). © Sahanala

On the importers’ side, being able to ensure a constant range of vanilla quality is essential. Hence, constant monitoring must be carried out from the vanilla plant, to the handling and drying of the pods. Aromatic precursors develop especially during the time of ripening and drying of the pods. If not properly treated, even good quality green pods may not meet the quality required for export. « Generally, quality vanilla beans have a vanillin of over 1.5% and a complex but well-balanced aroma profile free of any off notes », says Esposito. « To achieve this, consistent monitoring of quality must take place from the vine to handling and curing. A traceable and vertically integrated supply chain partnership with our farmers is crucial to maintaining this quality. »

In addition, the CNV is in the process of setting up marketing lobbying to establish a strategy to convince importers to use extracts with more than 0.1% vanillin. A higher rate will increase the demand and the export value on the Madagascar side, as well as the use of natural vanilla.

Agronomist experts and farmers can also share knowledge and inclusive agronomic practices in order to determine the best agricultural methods. Preserving the environment and the ecosystems surrounding the plantations is also integrated into the traceability of the product. For this, Malagasy vanilla producers use organic farming (non-use of chemical fertilizers, maintenance of soil fertility, optimal water management, …) and agroforestry, an ancestral agricultural method respectful for ecosystems. To keep agriculture as natural as possible, some producers even maintain vanilla plants that grow anywhere in the wild in the middle of tropical trees without using a specific cultivation plan.

Traceability ensures a decent income for producers

Consumers and importers are increasingly demanding traceability. At the same time, traceability is also a method to discover and understand the realities of producers. Recorded in real time, these realities provide an overview of what the producers experiences on a daily basis, and allow to assess the real value of their work.

Fairtrade International sets the annual price of vanilla (and many other agricultural products) based on the information gathered in the field to ensure a decent income for producers. They are paid premiums when working with exporters certified by the label.

P1366029-min — Fairtrade International sets the annual price of vanilla (and many based on the information… gathered in the field

« From our perspective, such models only work if farmers receive fair wages, processors get a return on investment, and end users have competitively priced products, » said Travis Green, Vice President of Business Development for ADM’s Global Vanilla subsidiary. SAVAN, their joint venture with Sahanala would tick all these boxes and would therefore be an excellent model of sustainability.

On the other hand, the Malagasy Government is also working on an intensive formalization of the sector, as well as the application of a floor price for vanilla for export. The floor price not only does help to regulate the market, but is also calculated based on the average income and decent standard of living of vanilla producers. Since the application of this price for the 2021-2022 campaign, the country’s export performance has improved, ranging from about 2,956 tonnes in 2018 to 2,975 tonnes in 2020.

A noble vanilla, symbol of luxury and refinement

An important point to note is, vanilla is not only intended for the agri-food industry. Madagascar vanilla is also sought-after by the luxury cosmetics and perfumery industry, for its unique aroma, its rarity but also its traceability. For instance, L’Oréal and Yves Rocher source their vanilla-scented cosmetics from Madagascar, and require traceable production at the level of producers. This means that traceability encompasses the development of producers’ incomes, and the improvement of their living conditions at the social and environmental level, where production must in no way harm the native ecosystem.

On the side of haute couture perfumery, vanilla from Madagascar would be one of the most precious ingredients of high-end perfumery. For example, it can be found in « Vanilla Diorama » of Dior’s private collection. A symbol of luxury and refinement par excellence, this fragrance was created as a tribute to the « Diorama gourmand », Christian Dior’s favorite dessert, created and designed solely for the famous couturier. With this perfume, Dior Greedy, sensual, round and opulent, the perfumer perfectly demonstrates how noble, greedy, sensual, round and rich Madagascar vanilla is. Highly coveted and limited edition, Vanilla Diorama recalls a precious stone that has been cut to dazzle the senses.

Other perfumers such as Kenzo also put Madagascar vanilla in the spotlight in one of its flagship perfumes: « 05: 40 PM in Madagascar« , Giorgio Armani in « My way », or at Chopard.

The portrait of : Omega, artisan for Made For A Woman

At the age of 29, determined, Omega Fidisoa Randrianantenaina (known as Omega), made the leap into the Made For A Woman great workshop with her 300 sisters. With those eyes sparkling with intelligence she was gifted with, she sets the tone of her intervention by pulling out a line quite unusual for a young woman of her age: « It’s not a dream; it’s a goal, » she says of what she would like to do later.

Despite her parents’ unconditional love, Omega had a difficult childhood. Due to a lack of means, she had to drop out of school — like her older brother — in college, like many other girls in her school. To help support the family, her mother taught her crocheting when she was 16. Together, they were able to make money from sewing and crocheting and make ends meet for the whole family.

In Madagascar, a large majority of the population lives below the poverty line, and many parents are forced to introduce their children into the labour market at a very young age. « I used to hold a grudge against my parents, but as I grew up, I came to understand them, » Omega said. « I understood how difficult life can be sometimes.”

« School wasn’t for me anyway, » she says with humor. Omega was one of those, like Einstein, whose full extent of intelligence could not be encompassed by academic success. Chances are, unconsciously, her condition has forged an incredible ability to adapt and allowed her to succeed where few would have dared. Growing up, the young girl became a woman and acquired some independence that is rare at her age.

Chosen by Made For A Woman

In 2018, Omega’s mother’s crocheting friends told her about Made For A Woman. She tried her luck because she was tired of odd jobs that barely allowed her to make ends meet. As a social enterprise, the brand auditions its artisans not only according to their talent and motivation, but also according to their situation. Eileen Akbaraly herself (the founder) visits women in their homes to get an idea of how difficult their daily lives are, and assess their needs.

Like Omega, the women selected by Made For A Woman mostly have a difficult, sometimes even violent past. Uneducated and marginalized by society, they are even more struggling finding jobs which require at least a bachelor’s degree.

The company found the real gem with Omega. “Omega is the smartest!” Eileen qualifies her. Leaving home every morning at seven o’clock to join the workshop, she stood out from the crowd by her talent and rigor, and is one of the 22 lucky ones working all year round for the brand. In addition, at Made For A Woman, craftswomen are partly paid for the number of hours devoted to each piece. “I like it when there’s more work because it means there’s more money to make, » says Omega.

« In addition, I learned new techniques. Before, I only knew crocheting, today I know braiding and making macramé« .

Life-changing

Working in a demanding profession of luxury brand, Omega now makes real pieces of artwork that the Mediterranean jet set loves. Perfectionist and savvy, she sometimes takes five days to make some pieces. With an incomparable motivation, she sometimes even brings work home and stays up until 10 p.m. « I do it because I want to earn the trust that is placed in me. »

With her hands, Omega makes golden and real pieces of art that are very popular among the Mediterranean jet set. © Made For A Woman

Her hard work completely changed her life. In less than five years at Made For A Woman, Omega reaped the rewards of her hard work and was able to make enough savings and buy land outside the city. For her age, and for a young woman in Madagascar, this is an incredible achievement.

If not long ago, her mother regretted having made her work too early, Omega is today her greatest pride. The little girl who once dreamed of joining the national police force was promoted in record time to supervisor at Made For A Woman, but still brings handbags home to make. “Another year to wait and I would have my own home.”

« If I could share a message to other young people of my age, I would tell them that work is not a game.”

Made For A Woman : ethical and sustainable fashion and luxury

Like other biggest luxury brands, designs by Made For A Woman were recently highlighted during the latest Milan Fashion Week, a major first for 100% Made-in-Madagascar items. This is another consecration after the ‘Best Commitment’ trophy at the 74th Cannes Film Festival, thanks to its documentary titled ‘The Raphia journey‘.

For the love of fashion and Madagascar, the island where she grew up, Eileen Akbaraly created in 2019, Made For A Woman: a Malagasy brand of luxury and entirely handmade raffia accessories. One of the pieces presented at the Milan Fashion Week is a raffia dress, decorated with Italian silk and more than 1,000 precious stones, giving a spectacular result. The dress required seven weeks of work and involved nearly 60 Malagasy artisans.

Designed in Italy, the most complex showroom accessories require more than three weeks. “I want the world to know the value of Malagasy manual art, because it’s very rare to find it anywhere else, » says Eileen.

made for a woman portrait — © Made For A Woman

tanya made for a woman portrait — © EDBM

As a social enterprise, the brand is committed to offering marginalized women opportunities, empowering them in an equitable and fulfilling environment. In addition to being paid 81% above the Malagasy minimum wage, each of these women enjoys many benefits such as language trainings, medical cares, productivity bonuses, etc.

Today, consumers are more concerned about the origin of what they buy, and seek both authenticity and respect for the environment. Each Made For A Woman design is stamped with portraits of those who made it (with a QR code to scan), to awaken emotions in consumers through the stories of these courageous artisans. “Today people want to buy to help. And storytelling is very popular.” In addition, the products are designed from the smallest fiber to packaging and shipping. The raffia, of a quality specific to Madagascar, is fairly produced. The pigment is certified « AZO free », and the packaging is made of authentic “Antaimoro » paper.

The brand is totally transparent in the price of its items, and ensures both the salaries of its women artisans. They purchase ethical raffia up to four times the price on the market, buys metal material in Italy to ensure its durability. Made For A Woman only produces to order with a « slow fashion » perspective, and pays additional fees to shipping companies to offset its carbon footprint. The rest of the profit is dedicated to communication and marketing as well as to operational costs of the workshop (water, electricity, canteen, etc.).

Les « années folles » — période marquante de l’histoire de la mode, où glamour, élégance et émancipation se mêlaient — ont vu naître une légende : « Chanel N°5 ». Bousculant tous les codes de l’époque en portant l’ylang ylang (Cannanga odorata) en note de cœur, le parfum de Gabrielle Chanel (alias Coco) est devenu la référence frôlant le mythe, dans le monde de la haute parfumerie. Aujourd’hui, l’hypnotique fleur, dont Madagascar est une des terres de prédilection, est aux cœurs de « J’adore In joy » de Dior, de « Murmure » de Van Cleef & Arpels, de « Samsara » de Guerlain, d’« Organza » de Givenchy, … Tous des incontournables !

Remontant à l’époque des grandes dynasties et monarques, l’histoire de la parfumerie est mêlée de légendes et de voyages aux quatre coins du monde. Auparavant uniquement réservé à la cour et à la bourgeoisie, se parfumer ou avoir sa propre fragrance est devenu un art d’exprimer son identité, au même rang que la mode, l’art de la bienséance ou tout simplement le charisme naturel.

Pour dénicher les essences les plus rares, les plus grands parfumeurs partent parfois à des milliers de kilomètres de chez eux pour trouver l’inspiration. En véritable invitation au voyage, l’essence d’ylang ylang, ou la « fleur des fleurs » (traduit de l’indonésien), fait partie de ces essences complexes, luxueuses et hors de prix, très recherchées par les grandes maisons.

Le succès intemporel du Chanel N°5 est en partie bâti sur cette fleur tropicale, dont Madagascar est en passe de devenir le premier producteur mondial. Avec la hausse des demandes, l’île est en effet passée en quelques années d’une production d’environ 25 tonnes, à plus de 60 tonnes d’huile essentielle d’ylang ylang, pour une valeur de près 8 millions USD par an (statistiques records de 2017). En vue de cette performance, Madagascar détient 25% du marché mondial de l’ylang, qui part surtout pour l’Europe et les États-Unis. Un marché de niche se développe également vers l’Extrême-Orient, notamment au Japon. Question traçabilité, la Grande-île est sur la bonne voie pour la première place mondiale en tant que producteur d’ylang ylang certifié biologique.

Grâce à l’ylang, Chanel N°5 aurait eu tellement de succès que Coco Chanel a créé, non sans réussite, un autre parfum à dominance d’ylang : « Bois des îles ». Tout a commencé par une histoire où la femme n’a jamais autant affirmé son identité, à une époque où régnaient mœurs conservatrices et bienséance surcodée. Mais en parallèle, l’art et la mode, n’allant plus l’un sans l’autre, étaient au summum de leur apogée, un mérite et un exploit propres aux années folles.

chanel-no-5-ylang frangrance — En tant que parfum mythique, Chanel n°5 est le premier parfum au monde à avoir une place dans un musée : le musée d’Art moderne de New-York, en 1959.

La naissance d’une légende : « un parfum de femme à odeur de femme »

Coco Chanel était le paroxysme personnifié de la révolution et de l’audace des années 20, d’abord car elle était la première à avoir osé allier la haute couture et la parfumerie. Ensuite, pour une première, elle a voulu pousser les codes encore plus loin en demandant une fragrance inimitable, complexe et composée de A à Z, à l’instar des robes qu’elle créait. Elle souhaitait, selon ses propres mots : « un parfum de femme à odeur de femme », et moderniser cette dernière au point de la hisser au rang de muse.

Pour créer son parfum, elle a alors fait appel à Ernest Henri Beaux, parfumeur à la cour des tsars et créateur du célèbre « Bouquet de Napoléon ». L’idée était de faire appel au génie du créateur, pour composer quelque chose d’assez abstrait et de mystérieux tel un tableau de peintre ; chose peu commune aux parfums de l’époque facilement identifiables, et qui tournaient surtout autour du jasmin et du muguet. Pour être à la hauteur du perfectionnisme de Mademoiselle, Beaux est allé rechercher l’inspiration aux quatre coins du monde, et a en partie misé sur les notes puissantes et épicées de l’ylang, pour faire voyager les sens. Son parfum contenait notamment au moins 10% d’essence de la fleur.

En véritable parfum coup de fouet, le N°5 de Chanel a apporté un souffle de liberté sans précédent, pour toutes les femmes de l’époque. Mademoiselle Chanel elle-même l’avait testé en première, et aurait fait tourner les têtes partout où elle passait. L’expression du féminin absolu : en le portant, une femme se sent tout de suite dotée d’un certain pouvoir de séduction, avec une touche de danger et un côté insaisissable. Bousculant les codes jusqu’au bout, elle avait choisi un contenant simple et épuré au maximum — a contrario de ceux de l’époque — avec un bouchon taillé tel un diamant, une ultime touche d’élégance.

Fait marquant de l’histoire, le succès déjà retentissant du Chanel N°5 aurait décuplé grâce à Marilyn Monroe, un autre symbole intemporel de la féminité. Au sommet de sa gloire, la star avait en effet répondu à la question d’un journaliste (du magazine Marie Claire), portant sur ce qu’elle portait pour dormir. La réplique fut inoubliable : « Juste quelques gouttes de Chanel N°5 … ». Les ventes du parfum ont par la suite décollé de façon spectaculaire. Aujourd’hui encore, il reste le parfum le plus vendu au monde avec un record d’un flacon écoulé toutes les deux à cinq secondes !

Succès perpétué grâce à sa longue liste d’égéries de marque : de Mademoiselle elle-même à Catherine Deneuve, Vanessa Paradis, Nicole Kidman, Audrey Tautou, Kristen Stewart, Lily-Rose Depp, … le parfum est monté au rang d’objet culte et a même sa place dans le musée d’Art moderne de New York dès 1959. Pour la première fois, une célébrité masculine (Brad Pitt) a même accepté d’être l’ambassadeur d’un parfum féminin. A l’heure actuelle, l’empire Chanel (parfums, cosmétiques, prêt-à-porter, …) pèserait près de 10 milliards USD, dont les 43,7 millions USD sont uniquement générés par Chanel N°5.

Une fragrance propre au terroir malgache

Le N°5 de Chanel a apporté un souffle précurseur sur plusieurs décennies, à l’économie de l’ylang dans les îles de l’océan Indien, dont Madagascar. Grâce à la tendance majeure apportée par Chanel, la parfumerie a aujourd’hui atteint une valeur 48 milliards USD au niveau mondial (2021), dont les 20% sont générées par la parfumerie fine. Les experts estiment que ce chiffre passera à 52 milliards USD d’ici 2025, et Givaudan, le leader mondial du marché et implanté à Madagascar, y contribue pour une valeur d’environ 5 milliards USD.

Les essences composant la parfumerie fine sont considérées comme des pièces de joaillerie, telles qu’elles sont devenues vitales pour ces industries de luxe. Pour la maison Chanel, elles sont si précieuses qu’elles sont scellées à double tour dans une chambre secrète au sein de leur laboratoire. On y trouve notamment de grandes matières premières florales dont l’ylang, une véritable aubaine pour Madagascar. « On les stocke ici du fait de leur rareté, car ce sont des produits de récoltes annuelles et du fait qu’elles sont souvent très onéreuses », expliquait dans un documentaire sur Chanel N°5, un responsable de laboratoire de la prestigieuse marque. « Ce sont nos pépites, nos petits diamants, notre écrin … » disait-il.

Outre le parfum icône, de grandes maisons comme Dior apprécient particulièrement l’ylang de Madagascar. François Demachy en personne, son parfumeur et créateur exclusif, fait des milliers de kilomètres depuis la France pour apprécier à sa source la fameuse fleur. Cette dernière est notamment appréciée de la parfumerie fine parce qu’elle fait partie des rares fleurs avec lesquelles l’on peut extraire des essences. D’après l’expert, elle serait si peu colorée en comparaison des autres fleurs, qu’elle aurait besoin d’exhaler des fragrances pour se faire remarquer par les pollinisateurs. Dans la parfumerie, la fleur serait synonyme de soleil, de chaleur et de luminosité. « On utilise cet inconscient pour évoquer un côté solaire, un côté joyeux dans un parfum », disait-il.

Bien que d’origine indonésienne, l’arbuste se serait si bien adapté au sol malgache que l’île possède aujourd’hui des essences d’ylang uniques au monde. Ce qui les distingue entre autres, ce sont les concentrations de certaines molécules spécifiques. Plus légères que celles extraites aux Comores par exemple, les essences d’ylang de Madagascar ont un profil chimique complètement différent, que Dior apprécie et met au cœur d’un de ses parfums phares, « J’adore In Joy ». Cette dernière est une déclinaison de « J’adore », le premier et le seul parfum au monde, à avoir détrôné une fois Chanel n°5 en vente en 2010 (avec un chiffre de 43,8 millions USD).

« J’adore In Joy », avec pour égérie Charlize Theron, porte l’ylang ylang de Madagascar en ingrédient phare.

« L’hypothèse la plus soutenue est qu’il y a un effet terroir qui joue, et aussi des techniques de distillation », estime Lisa Generali, responsable commerciale en France pour les huiles essentielles de Jacarandas, une entreprise malgache œuvrant dans les huiles essentielles bio et les épices. « Nous, on le fait par entraînement à la vapeur », précise-t-elle.

Les conditions pédoclimatiques du sol malgache sont en effet idéales pour une grande diversité végétale, et intéressent beaucoup d’investisseurs dans l’agribusiness. « Madagascar est une île où la richesse endémique, la richesse du sol et la richesse du climat permettent d’avoir une variété de production très importante, car du Nord au Sud les climats sont différents, et sur les hauts plateaux c’est encore le cas », indique Matthieu Richard, manager projet à Jacarandas.

Inverser la tendance grâce au développement durable

Le marché mondial de l’ylang est principalement alimenté par Madagascar et les Comores. Si ces dernières avaient quasiment le monopole du marché pendant des décennies, la tendance serait aujourd’hui sur le point de s’inverser. Deux principaux phénomènes seraient à l’origine de cette inversion, le premier étant les grandes avancées de la Grande-Île en termes de développement durable. En vue de l’urgence climatique mondiale et la tendance de consommation actuelle, le marché est en effet de plus en plus demandeur de produits certifiés biologiques, et équitables. Se conformant aux demandes de ce marché, Madagascar s’est vu adopter la loi n°2020-003 sur l’agriculture biologique, afin d’en réglementer l’exportation et les cahiers des charges des produits, conformément à la protection de l’environnement et des questions éthiques.

Pour le cas de Jacarandas par exemple, des efforts sont concentrés dans le but de réduire la consommation énergétique des alambics, grâce à des innovations technologiques. Ces innovations leur ont notamment permis de réduire considérablement leur consommation de bois. D’un autre côté, ils compensent également leur émission de carbone par des projets de reboisement, et des systèmes de plantations respectueux des écosystèmes. Dans ce sens, les essences d’ylang produites par l’entreprise sont entièrement certifiées biologiques.

Un autre point qui intéresse les grands parfumeurs : les méthodes de production éthiques et traçables. « De l’ylang on en trouve partout dans l’océan Indien. Mais la raison pour laquelle la qualité de Nosy be m’intéresse c’est que c’est une qualité qui est complètement traçable. C’est important pour nous parce que non seulement c’est une question d’éthique, mais aussi, ça nous permet d’année en année d’avoir les mêmes qualités », confirme Demachy.

Jacarandas est fier des bons rapports avec les paysans avec lesquels il contracte, dans un respect mutuel des engagements pris dans le cadre d’une agriculture contractuelle. Cela permettrait d’obtenir des normes de qualité constantes, tout en assurant des revenus stables aux paysans. En plus d’une plantation d’ylang de 50 ha, l’entreprise travaille avec cinq associations paysannes pour l’ylang, et exporte près de deux tonnes d’huiles essentielles par an (par la distillation de près de 90 tonnes de fleurs). L’ensemble des producteurs est suivi et formé pour respecter un cahier des charges très strict, un gage de qualité auprès du client final.

A Madagascar, les fleurs d’ylang sont cueillies très tôt le matin…

… afin de garder le maximum de fragrances avant la distillerie. © Jacarandas

Le deuxième facteur qui a conduit à la montée en flèche de Madagascar en termes de ventes, c’est une fluctuation du marché pendant la crise liée à la Covid-19. Contrairement à d’autres pays fournisseurs d’ylang, le pays se serait adapté à la baisse des prix, conduisant à un apport clientèle considérable. « 50% du marché capté par les Comores s’est déplacé vers Madagascar », affirme Matthieu Richard.

Une terre de prédilection pour l’agribusiness

En plus des facteurs pédoclimatiques susmentionnés, d’autres points clés attirent les investisseurs en agribusiness à Madagascar. Il serait notamment plus important autant pour cette catégorie d’entrepreneurs, que pour les clients finaux, de pouvoir retracer un produit depuis sa terre d’origine, puis la plantation, jusqu’à la transformation en produit fini.

Travailler sur des plantations sur place offrirait également beaucoup d’avantages, car cela permet de valoriser ce que l’on appelle des itinéraires de cultures. Il s’agit en effet d’une sorte de suivi à la source (qualité du sol, teneur en azote, humidité, …), permettant de définir et de standardiser des facteurs de développement optimaux à travers toutes les plantations.

plantation ylang parfum — Les arbres d’ylang peuvent atteindre 15 m, mais sont taillés et pliés comme des bonzaïs afin de faciliter la cueillette des fleurs. ©Jacarandas.

Par ailleurs, des initiatives de reboisement permettront plus de disponibilités en termes d’énergie, pour le secteur des huiles essentielles. De plus, une plateforme a été dédiée spécifiquement pour ce secteur à Nosy be depuis quelques années, par le projet de Pôle Intégré de Croissance (PIC). Elle permet de réunir tous les acteurs de la filière pour discuter par exemple de solutions plus durables sur la consommation énergétique dans la filière ylang.

« L’ylang doit parachever sa transition écologique pour être durable dans le temps. Aujourd’hui, oui c’est un succès, mais si on veut que ce soit un succès durable, il y a encore beaucoup de travail à faire. C’est l’enjeu de la filière », conclut Matthieu Richard.